August 2026
In this article, I’ll tell you about an adventure that was a long time in the making. We walked the entire Prague green metro line on foot, from start to finish. It’s not as daunting as it seems. It took just 6 hours (7 hours including breaks) and covered 21 km
Logically, you should start at the Nemocnice Motol station. Why? It’s simple. You’re almost always walking downhill
I think I’ve only been here once. All I remember is that I had to walk to a hospital, but a different one—not Motol. After walking for five minutes, I realized the road just ended. To cut to the chase, it didn’t get any better from there. The metro comes right out onto the road. The hospital is a couple minutes’ walk from here
Motol
As it turned out, the hospital is a whole little world of its own: shops, cafes, places to sit. I never would have thought it, but you could actually hang out here
Interestingly, this metro station is in the middle of nowhere. And this is the only place where you have to go up a hill. Going up the hill, by the way, isn’t such a simple task. You have to search for this path—it’s not on any maps. If you follow the directions on the maps, the walk will take 20 minutes instead of 5
Once you’ve made it up the hill, you’ll see this. Just a reminder: apartment prices in Prague are just like in Paris
Petříny Station
Let’s keep walking past the garages
Apartments here are still insanely expensive
But at least there are now Zasilkovna post boxes even in these shitholes
Nadrazi Veleslavin. The old-timers remember that when I first arrived in 2013, this subway station hadn’t been built yet. The bus to the airport used to run from Dejvice. Then they built this subway station, and the bus started running from here. It’s hard to imagine today, but there used to be no escalator here at the subway exit. I mean, seriously—the only subway station that connects to the airport didn’t have an escalator. It’s also really hard to imagine how tourists with huge suitcases managed that. There were guys standing here at the exit who would kind of help haul those suitcases. These “guys” were just ordinary twenty-year-olds. They usually just stood there doing nothing, trying not to draw attention to themselves, because, of course, they didn’t want to carry anything either. So if you didn’t know about their services, you had to drag your suitcase up the stairs yourself
Next, for about 20–30 minutes, you walk along the most monotonous road in the world and see the most monotonous buildings in the world
Borislavka
Civilization begins somewhere around here, about a ten-minute walk from Dejvice
Instead of a huge, noisy road, here there’s a huge, practically silent road
Dejvice. The famous roundabout. They’re bound to rebuild it any day now. They’ve been rebuilding it for the last fifty years. My main memories here are the weekend markets and how you can never guess which way the subway exit will take you
This is where normal life begins. You know who lives here
And the ice cream here is delicious
All in all, this neighborhood has been transformed and has definitely become one of the best in the city
Hradčany
Turns out the pump was working. The path to it goes through everyone’s favorite park
We’re approaching Malostranská
Prague Castle is visible
And my university. For the first time in my life, right here where this photo was taken, two German grannies came up to me and, speaking German with zero fucks given, started asking me where the Tschechische Brücke was. I don’t know how coincidences like this happen, but I started learning German exactly a week ago and was even able to help them
Staromák
It always smells like shit here—those who know, know
By the way, the city in this area has been transformed over the last couple of years. Before, for example, there was a parking lot here, because the fecking boomers don’t know how to live any other way
We’re approaching the “Hell on Earth” branch, in the center of Prague
Ahead lies Wenceslas Square. It’s hard to imagine, but I see this photo in a completely different light. I don’t sense the presence of people in it at all. Why? Because during the pandemic, these places were completely empty. So empty, in fact, that I used to go for a run here at full speed in the evenings. This went on for a year or two, and it just so happened that this empty space became etched in my mind, along with the emotions associated with it. I always feel right at home here
Můstek
You can see the museum
Actually, the museum. By the way, does anyone know where exactly the entrance to the green museum is?
By the way, the tram will be back here soon
Mírák
The best neighborhood in Prague, of course
Slezská Street. You know who lives here
Jiřák. They just finished renovating this area, but I didn’t even notice it—as far as I can tell, nothing much has changed.
Second stop
They served sours
Let’s keep going. Ignore the cars—this neighborhood is full of millionaires
Flora
It’s still the absolute shithole of the world, even if it’s expensive
Želivárna
I can’t believe this is still Prague. The vibe there is totally rural. I have no idea who buys this crap
Interestingly, after this village, there’s about ten minutes of a normal neighborhood
With (new) villas (not really)
Strašnická. I like it in its own way
Our third stop was here
Further on, it’s not just a village anymore, but a car-filled village. Although I have to give it credit: on the Green Line, it’s still somewhat bearable. On the other lines, it’s just awful in areas like this
Solidarita. You can live here, but why would you want to?
Nové Strašnice. It’s not even funny anymore
Hostivář Depot
I know this place because there’s a cheap studio here where you can play the drums. And, of course, because there’s an outlet here where you can supposedly buy clothes cheaply. “Supposedly cheap,” because I believed that until 2015, right before the internet came along. Generally speaking, this station is considered an urban planning mistake in Prague because it essentially leads nowhere. Most likely, over time, it will either be removed, or the green line will continue not from here but further down, to Zahradní město
Even though this was the terminal station, I decided to end with a different one. Again, everything here was built crooked. The walk from the last station on Prague’s Green Line to the second-to-last one is, of course, a total nightmare. Again, it’s hard to believe, but we’re in one of the cities with the least affordable housing in Europe
This is how Prague’s working-class people live
And we’ve arrived at our final stop—Skálka
This is where our little adventure ends. Or is it just beginning?